We caught up with Gibbston Valley Winery winemaker and Pinot Noir expert Chris Keys to talk about the local winemaking scene. Chris became a winemaker after working in a fine wine store in Dunedin while studying literature. It was the mid-90s and wine was a young, exciting industry just starting up in Central Otago. Chris recalls, “Rubbing shoulders with winemakers when they did tastings and hearing their stories inspired me to make wine.”
Chris has worked at Gibbston Valley for 18 years. He says, “Gibbston is an interesting place. The Kawarau Valley Gorge has been a highway for centuries. That flow of energy creates a sense of momentum. To me the pioneering, progressive nature of Gibbston wineries is a manifestation of the environment. It's not a sedate region. There's always something new.”
Experience Vintage and the Changing Colours of the Vineyards
Chris believes autumn is quite simply the best time of the year to visit Queenstown. He says, “The weather's calm and mild and nature unfurls a platter of the most incredible golden beauty. The backdrop of the vines changing colour from green to gold is absolutely spectacular, as are the other autumnal colours around Gibbston and Arrowtown.”
Autumn is also action time for wineries. Chris explains, “Harvest happens during the golden glory of autumn. We start picking the early grapes in Gibbston from the end of February and really get into harvest mid-March. April's the most intense period for processing and fermenting the wines. In May we press the Pinot Noirs, barrel them, and put them to bed.”
A Pioneering Wine Region, Shaped by the Land
Central Otago Pinot Noir has a great deal of soul and personality. Chris says, “At its best, it's revelatory and definitively Central Otago. The wines reflect our alpine landscape, the clean air, bright sun, and southern latitude. The schist soils give a clarity and a purity to the wines.”
The wine is also defined by our geology. Chris explains, “The terraces that hug the ranges in Central Otago were created by the last glacial retreat. So, we've got all these quirky, unique little terraces, perched at different altitudes, with different soil types and microclimates. We’ve emphasised that by planting the most expressive grape variety. Pinot Noir expresses a sense of place to a very accurate degree.”
“As a result, the regional diversity of Central Otago is reflected in the wine. Pinot Noir geeks celebrate how unique the different Central Otago sub regions are. A Gibbston Pinot will be very different to a Bannockburn Pinot, or a Pinot from Bendigo or Alexandra.”
“On top of that regional variation, there are all these adventurous winemakers creating their own memorable interpretations of the area. There’s the wild romanticism of Quartz Reef, the incredible detail of Felton Road, the delicacy of Chard Farm, and the certainty of Peregrine.”
Top Autumn Wine Experiences
A vineyard tour during harvest season has an extra buzz. Not only is the landscape at its most beautiful, but as Chris says, “The sights, smells and activity of vintage are quite a draw. You can feel the energy and excitement.” Ask the cellar door team how the harvest is progressing and what their viticulturists and winemakers think the years vintage will be like. Wine tasting against the backdrop of Gibbston’s autumn colours is an unforgettable treat.
Combine wine tasting with immersing yourself in the beauty of Queenstown’s landscape. The Queenstown Trail network has picturesque bike trails from Queenstown and Arrowtown into the heart of wine country. Hire a bike or an e-bike and make your way there under your own steam, or book a cycling tour through the vineyards. Local guides tell the story of Queenstown wine and winemakers, while pointing out highlights on the trail.
Don’t miss the chance to pair Central Otago wine with seasonal local produce. Queenstown boasts over 150 bars and restaurants, and our multi-cultural, cosmopolitan chefs curate many complementary food and wine experiences. Our guide to autumn food experiences in Queenstown is packed with great ideas for places to sample seasonal delights.
Chris Key says, “I have a lot of fun drinking Pinot Noir with pork katsu at Kappa in Queenstown. The crisp deep-fried pork sings along merrily with Pinot's lightness and sweetness. You can't go beyond savoury duck with a sweet fruity Pinot like Brennan or Akarua. I also get excited pairing our wines with great local produce like Royalburn lamb or Ōhau Wagyu beef. Make sure you find a place to enjoy Bluff oysters and Central Otago sparkling wine.”
Chris’s Pinot Noir Picks
We asked Chris to recommend a few great Central Otago Pinots to try while you’re here. He says, “Our neighbour Chard Farm make elegant wines that personify delicacy. Their single vineyard Pinot Noirs, Tiger and Viper by chief winemaker John Wallace, are stunning wines. I’ve a deep admiration for winemaker Rudi Bauer at Quartz Reef. His technical precision and poetic sensibility. His expression of Bendigo Pinot is texture deluxe. I'm very impressed with Felton Road. They're doing Pinot with such breadth of flavour. You can taste the high notes.”
“I like wines where the characteristics aren't buried in big fruit or cloaked in barrel. I admire wines brave enough to stand by themselves, so I love many Central Otago wines for different reasons. Peregrine Pinot has fantastic precision and purity. Rippon has a jaw dropping lime acidity. There’s the peppy florality of Maude. There are some great small new producers like Moko Hills in Bendigo. As long as a wine has a voice, I like it.”
Asking a winemaker to name a favourite from their own wines may be tough. But we pressed Chris to recommend some Gibbston Valley Winery highlights. “The 2021 School House Pinot Noir from a high-altitude vineyard in Bendigo is lovely because the vineyard imprint comes through. It’s a very pretty wine. It was a little naïve and innocent when it was young. As it’s matured, it hasn't lost that purity, but it's gained so much character. I also like what my fellow winemaker Sascha Herbert has done with the original home block vines. She's made sure the vineyard has been regenerated with respect for our history, and that's really interesting wine. And our Chardonnay's cool. Central Otago Chardonnay has real bang.”
Beyond the Vineyards
Even the most dedicated wine lovers can’t spend all day sampling spectacular Central Otago vintages. Queenstown has an array of autumn activities. The landscape is so glorious that sightseeing is a must. Some of our favourite things to do are walking around Arrowtown admiring the autumn foliage, visiting local galleries and artist’s studios, and taking a photography tour. Autumn is also a wonderful time to revitalise with an afternoon at a day spa, a soak in a hot tub in an unforgettable location, or even a visit to a wellness retreat.
Chris recommends a round of golf in autumn. It’s a fabulous time of year, with settled, warm golden days, and the greens are less crowded. For an evening experience that combines stargazing and wine tasting, check out our guide to places to dine by starlight.
Practical Tips for Planning your Autumn Visit to Queenstown
Autumn really is one of the best times to visit Queenstown. Not only is the scenery at its most stunning and the weather at its most welcoming, but you get your pick of accommodation, places to eat and drink, and things to do.
If you want to stay in Gibbston, accommodation near the vineyards includes Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa for relaxed luxury, fine food and wine, and private villas with views over the historic organic vineyards. Kinross has studio cottages dotted around the beautiful property, with an outdoor hot tub, pétanque court, and BBQ. Arrowtown has a range of picturesque places to stay, and you can cycle to Gibbston along the Arrow River Trail.
It's easy to get to the Gibbston wine region. You’re only a 14-minute drive from Arrowtown and a 20-minute drive from Queenstown. The Queenstown Trail network allows you to safely cycle there on beautiful offroad trails and there are bike shuttles and transport if you only want to cycle one way. Gibbston Valley Winery run a regular shuttle bus. And an array of wine tours can transport you into the heart of the Valley of the Vines.
With such an array of interesting Pinot expressions, and a spectacular food scene, Queenstown really is the ultimate destination for Pinot Noir enthusiasts, with autumn the jewel in the wine region’s crown.
